DEVELOPMENT OF SUSTAINABLE COSMETIC INGREDIENTS VIA VITIS VINIFERA LEAFS EXTRACT FERMENTATION

Fermentation processes can transform natural by-products into high-value cosmetic bioactives, reducing waste, promoting sustainability, and supporting circular economy through upcycling. Fermented Vitis vinifera leafs extracts (FVVLEs) represent a class of innovative ingredients, as they are rich in plant secondary metabolites known for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties as well as anti-aging activity . In particular, we studied FVVLEs’ role in improving skin health and anti-aging properties thanks to its capability to reduce skin blemishes. FVVLEs were obtained through L. plantarum PBS 067 (DMS 24937) mediated-fermentation: the process was optimized in terms of extract concentrations, pH conditions and temperatures, and later a precision fermentation in a 1L bioreactor was performed. Lastly, antioxidant properties were evaluated through different analysis (DPPH and TPC tests), and efficacy tests on skin health and whitening were performed. As a result, we identified the optimal conditions for precision fermentation of VVLE using LP; antioxidant assays showed a high antioxidant activity of the fermented product, and efficacy tests confirmed its anti-aging effects and improvement of skin health in general. These results highlight FVVLEs as a potential cosmetic ingredient, especially for the anti-aging application.